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Posted by finkployd in
Info
Thursday, February 10. 2005
3 months ago, on the 27th of November, this article was published in FT.
2 articles, 3 months apart... surely something is brewing.
Here, FT captures the uniqueness of Beirut/Lebanon. The generosity of the people, the bonhomie of the spirit... A tradition that survived many wars, and has risen like the phoenix, brighter with every resurrection.
With 35bn dollars of national debt and a declining economy, it seems surreal that such an article could be written - depicting a flame that will burn bright until its final breath.
Of all that which makes us who we are, the mountains, the beaches, the snow, the sand, the springs, the greens, the pines, the cedars... our generosity defines us the most.
As such, a Lebanese is a Lebanese wherever he may be.
Immigration officials at airports the world over tend to be a dour bunch
- repetitive strain from all that rubber-stamping perhaps -
but not in Beirut. Bleary-eyed from having flown in at 4.30am, I
returned from the currency exchange booth to find the two friends I
was travelling with deep in conversation with an immigration official. I
imagined there was a problem of some kind, but as I drew
closer I realised they were bantering, among other things about where to
find the best Lebanese food in town.
"My mother cooks the best," he said in characteristically Mediterranean
fashion. "I invite you to my home." They looked uncertain.
"I mean that," he insisted.
On the flimsiest of pretexts, the baby-faced, khaki-clad official then
waived their visa fees and wished them a pleasant stay.
Beirut's charm offensive starts early.
In the past couple of months, politics have taken a worrying tack in
Lebanon, but to the casual visitor the party town that is
Beirut still seems the most gracious city in the world, even if it can
seem occasionally schizophrenic.
Divisions between Muslims and Christians still simmer under the city's
glitzy cosmopolitan veneer while Syria's hold on Lebanon is
tightening: Rafiq al-Hariri, the highly regarded architect of Lebanon's
rebound since its very uncivil war ended in the early 1990s,
quit in October. He did so apparently out of frustration after a long
battle with the president over Syria's influence over Lebanon.
At street level, though, the immigration officer's kindness turned out
to be only the opening act of what seemed like the handiwork
of a welcoming committee.
After four days in Beirut, I began to think it perfectly normal for
someone to offer you a lift to a place just because you happened
to have asked for directions there. On one occasion even a cab driver
did it.
Close to sunset one evening, we wandered into the picturesque grounds of
the American University of Beirut and were passed on to a
security guard who asked for identification. Then, realising we were
foreigners, his face creased into a broad smile.
"Welcome," he said elaborately drawing out the word as if we were on a
state visit.
The young caretaker at the so-called Fountain mosque, set amid a garden
with date palms in central Beirut, was busy putting up a
canopy to accommodate the extra worshippers expected the following day
to celebrate the end of Ramadan, but he took us around the
mosque anyway. I made the "mistake" of asking the young manager of a
cafe for the way to the best part of Beirut's beachside
promenade. Twenty minutes later, he was still mapping out the rest of
our day for us.
This hospitality is a Middle Eastern tradition of courtesy towards
travellers, but in Beirut it goes deeper and is much more
informal. I felt I was wandering the streets among a large and welcoming
family that had just reclaimed an ancestral mansion and was
looking for any excuse to share its good fortune. Beirut has long been
described as the Paris of the East, but I can think of few
cities less like each other. As cityscapes go, Beirut's jumble of
architectural styles doesn't begin to measure up to the Left Bank.
Philosophically, the Beiruti is as patient with tourists as the the
Parisian can be disdainful. There isn't much existential angst
in Beirut either; against the odds, life - and business - goes on.
Being endlessly obliging makes good business sense in a city that takes
pride in its history of trading and the wealth of its
far-flung diaspora.
Beirut has recently been rediscovered by the wealthy of Saudi Arabia and
Qatar. Many no longer feel welcome when they holiday in
Europe or the US and spend their summers in Beirut instead.
Makram Zaccour, chairman in the Middle East of Merrill Lynch Pierce
Fenner & Smith, waves at a plush shopping centre just outside
his office in the midst of the sea of reconstruction that is downtown
Beirut. "When you shop here, no one will tell you, 'We close
at 6 pm'. You want it delivered to your home, it will be delivered to
your home," says the courtly banker who moved back to Beirut
from London four years ago. "This is the Phoenician spirit that carries
on. We look after people."
Then, quite unconsciously proving his point, Zaccour guides me to a
bookshop after lunch, and leaves only after he has called a
couple of stores to be sure that they have reopened after the holidays
and after he has made the bookshop's staff promise they will
direct me to them.
The Lebanese historian Kamal Salibi says that while links between the
Phoenicians and the urban Lebanese are impossible to prove,
there are many common traits. "Like the ancient Phoenicians, they are
socially playful to the point of irresponsible levity, yet
serious, highly alert and efficient, though somewhat unconventional,
when it comes to real business," he writes. We were met every
night, usually around mid night, by a restaurant manager one of our
group had befriended, after he had finished a long day's work -
and usually before he made his way to yet another party.
There may be a Neroesque quality to the all-night revels that are a
commonplace on the weekend in Beirut, but in few cities is the
clubbing so good-humoured. We were leaving Acid, one of those
techno-blasting nightclubs that should hand out industrial
ear-mufflers at the door, when a man was shoved out by a bouncer.
Inside, the neon sign above the bar had read improbably "Open Bar
till 5 am." Ripe conditions for a bust-up, I thought grimly, except that
few of the 30-something crowd were really knocking it back,
despite the offer. The argument was settled amicably enough and the
ejected man sallied back into the club where a few lesbians had
commandeered the stage while a mixed gay and straight crowd danced the
night away.
Fittingly, in a city where hospitality is a byword, restaurateurs and
bar-owners really spoil you. After we had settled the bill at
The Gallery, a bar in Achrafieh, the manager insisted on a farewell
round on the house before we left. The same evening the
assistant man ager at a cosy French-Italian restaurant, Julia's, brought
dessert and liqueurs to our table after we had ordered
coffee - as far as I could tell just to keep the good-humoured jousting
with our table going a little longer.
The lesson I learned in Beirut was that cities are both a stage on which
to be sociable or a refuge where we can be anonymous. Most
of us elsewhere in the world take the latter route, the path of least
engagement. By my last evening in Beirut, I was beginning to
acclimatise. Even so, while shopping at a shirting retailer that
featured fine cotton from Italy and Switzerland, we routinely
declined the offer of home-made sorbet and ice cream from the
grandfatherly owner before feeling obliged to accept. Who could blame
us - where else in the world do they do this sort of thing? A few
minutes later, the sorbet arrived - from his flat nearby.
Through the hour or so that we spent there shopping for all of four
shirts between us, we were peppered with questions about London
and what we thought of Beirut. The elderly owner insisted on
accompanying us to the street when we left, making elaborate farewells
in flowery French, pointing out the grand mansion nearby and tut-tutting
about the family squabble that had left it unoccupied. He
gallantly kissed the hand of a friend of mine, told her Italian husband
he wished he spoke French and chucked me under the chin as
if I were a child.
As we waved goodbye, I could not help feeling that underneath Beirut's
sweet bonhomie and generousity of spirit was the anxiety of a
city energetically rebuilding itself yet uncertain that the world is
taking notice.
By RAHUL JACOB
1,389 words
27 November 2004
Financial Times
London Ed1
Page 16
English
(c) 2004 The Financial Times Limited. All rights reserved
-finkployd
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